What we say

This has to be one of India’s most extraordinary wildlife experiences.

Take a 560-acre cardamom plantation, abandon it for 40 years to rewild, build a five-bed stone bungalow reminiscent of century-old forest rest houses, and find a brilliant team. Don’t build proper roads, relish the absence of WiFi, and you have Fringe Ford.

My first encounter with Shaji, the naturalist, set the tone perfectly. As I admired the stunning view, he casually pointed to a spot 100 metres away where a tiger had killed a deer two days prior, dragging it downstream. Tomorrow, he announced matter-of-factly, that we’d walk down to find the remains.

The next day we covered seven kilometres on foot through thick forest – home to three tigers, leopards, bears, and elephants. In whispers, Shaji shared knowledge of citronella and wild cinnamon, pointing out poisonous plants while we watched mud bees and dancing dragonflies. We held our breath as we listened to elephants moving nearby, whilst Malabar squirrels chattered across treetops. He showed me sloth bear scratch marks, fresh elephant poop and more tiger scat than you can shake a stick at.

Later we climbed into a machan where I promptly fell asleep in a tree-top hammock, snoring “like a lorry thundering through the forest,” according to Shaji.

Dinner was by candlelight and featured Anish’s exceptional cooking – the lightest dosas imaginable and egg curry to die for. Fully replete, we retired to the campfire. With zero light pollution, the stars blazed overhead while glow worms darted around like tiny green sparks. There’s nothing quite like fireside chats in the jungle. I asked Shaji if he’d been to any of the national parks. “Why would I?” Was his response, “They are busy like cities with many jeeps, here I am one man with my tigers.” There’s no answer to that.

Our three words:

Raw | Authentic | Unforgettable

Philippa…

Hotel Story

The last part of the journey is tiresome, but only for those who aren’t seeking what’s truly wild. The reward for your efforts is a spectacular, pristine location over what is one of the few remaining pockets of Malabar Rain Forest left in the world.

Ahmed Chamanwala came across a working cardamom and coffee plantation bordering Wayanad Tiger Reserve and Arlam Tiger Reserves in 1995 and bought it, all 507 acres of it. And then just left it alone. What then happened shouldn’t surprise anyone, what it should do is fill them with joy. The land, left alone regenerated, replenished and wildlife started to move back.

Five rooms were reutilised from the original dwelling which now provide no frills, but perfectly comfortable accommodation to guests wishing to visit this haven which is totally based on conservation orientated tourism. 

The staff are all local, Anish (the cook) has been on the plantation for over 45 years and knows exactly where to forage for the most delicious, wholesome ingredients  and the rest of his offerings are based on Keralan cuisine.  Aman and Shaji are from the local village and have also been there for decades.  This small but passionate team are focused on conservation and wildlife and are happy to share this with you, should you decide to visit, which you should.

The views and company are spectacular, the opportunity to share this space with this extraordinary team is a privilege. The views will blow you away, evenings in the garden, around a small camp fire chatting about the day will fly by all too quickly.

In 2019, Ahmed acquired 43 more acres of adjacent land and left that to regenerate too. This is as far removed from profit as possible – it’s about the land, the streams flowing from each valley, and pure conservation. The family’s vision centres on acquiring additional land for permanent protection while keeping accommodation minimal, ensuring tourism supports rather than compromises the ecosystem.

Ahmed is also instrumental in helping the Government of India frame policy on ‘Private Land Participation in Conservation of Forests’ with a white paper submitted to the parliamentary committee on environment and science. 

Who is this for: With no Wi-Fi and no TV this is for people who truly appreciate nature, walks, wildlife and aren’t afraid to walk into the jungle. The rewards are immense.

Don’t miss: Walks with Shaji and timepass in a hammock in the machaan.

SUSTAINABLE SCORE : 67/70

  • Land Reclamation/Rewilding: 10
  • Food from 50 Mile Radius: 10
  • Organic Produce: 8
  • Wastewater Recycling/management:  9
  • Natural Materials / Heritage Building: 10
  • Single Plastic: 10
  • Local Staff: 10

SUSTAINABLE INITIATIVES

  • Old-fashioned cooking on a smoke-free charcoal stove.
  • Forest foraging for meal ingredients
  • No Internet, No TV
  • Reduction of Invasive Species

SUSTAINABLE SCORE : 67/70

  • Land Reclamation/Rewilding: 10
  • Food from 50 Mile Radius: 10
  • Organic Produce: 8
  • Wastewater Recycling/management:  9
  • Natural Materials / Heritage Building: 10
  • Single Plastic: 10
  • Local Staff: 10

SUSTAINABLE INITIATIVES

  • Old-fashioned cooking on a smoke-free charcoal stove.
  • Forest foraging for meal ingredients
  • No Internet, No TV
  • Reduction of Invasive Species

EXPERIENCES

HOW TO REACH HERE

BY AIR: Kozhikode (Calicut) International Airport is approximately 2 hours 30 minutes by car from Fringe Ford, with excellent connections from major Indian cities and international destinations including the Middle East. Bangalore’s Kempegowda International Airport is about 5 hours away, offering broader international connectivity.

BY RAIL: The nearest railway station is Kozhikode Railway Station, approximately 90 km from the property, with trains connecting to major cities across India including Chennai, Bangalore, Mumbai, and Delhi. Mysore Railway Station is another option at 120 km distance. Pick-up services from both stations can be arranged by the property.

 

DESTINATIONS DISTANCE (KM) TIME (HR)
Kozhikode Airport 90 Km 2 Hours 30 Minutes
Kozhikode Railway Station 90 Km 2 Hours 30 Minutes
Wayanad Wildlife Sanctuary 15 Km 30 Minutes
Edakkal Caves 35 Km 1 Hour
Chembra Peak 20 Km 40 Minutes
Mysore 120 Km 3 Hours
Ooty 85 Km 2 Hours 30 Minutes